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RelationTrips
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Personal, Practical Advice for Every Traveler
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From Arica to Antarctica:
Regular reports from our RelationTrips correspondent as she follows a coastline
itinerary as long as the distance from Havana to Hudson Bay
By Dina M. Horwedel
I. Preparation
For those who love travel, safe adventure -- in the form of trekking, sea
kayaking, wildlife and bird-watching, glacier cruises, cave and archeological
exploration, mountain biking, rafting, fly fishing, and more -- await in Chile.
Chile? Isn’t Chile in South America? Yes, but now that the shadow
of Pinochet is gone, Chile beckons as one of the hottest safe tourist destinations.
Unlike many South American nations, Chile has low poverty and temperate
climates. Combined with excellent seafood, a healthy exchange rate,
good health care facilities, a lack of health care concerns that hurt other
neighboring South American countries (there is no malaria in Chile, and yellow
fever, typhoid, and other vaccines are not required for visitors), and friendly
locals, what is not to like? In addition, Chile shares the same longitude
as Portland Maine, making it an easy and accessible destination – no jet
lag, allowing you to jump right into your itinerary.
Join me as I explore Chile’s nearly empty coastline stretching the equivalent
distance from Havana to the Hudson Bay and the Andes fringing the borders
to the east -- some of the world’s most spectacular scenery. Chile is
also home to many national parks and preserves, vineyards to rival those in
California and the Bordeaux region of France, beautiful fjords, coastal resort
towns, the driest and most temperate desert in the world, prehistoric and
colonial art, archaeological treasures, and more. Chile is a land of
superlatives, and with only 14 million residents, that is a heck of a lot
of scenery to go around!
Check out the South American map and follow my journey across the ring of
fire and this enchanted land as I climb volcanoes, cruise the Antartic waters,
fly to the most remote island on earth, an open-air archaeological museum
known as Rapa Nui (Easter Island to us), hike the famous Torres del Paine,
and am surrounded by unsurpassed beauty, friendly folks, and muddle my way
through it all with a moderate fluency in Spanish and a definite gringa
accent!
What I'll see:
The Atacma Desert features ancient rock art, huge
drawings on the desert floor that can be seen from the sky, and the legacy
of the Atacama culture. Multicolored lakes, the world’s highest geyser
at 12,000’ above sea level, salt flats, and rock formations grace the area,
named the Valley of the Moon.
Along the North Coast I will roam flowering deserts (it is late spring
in Chile in November), and star-gaze in the Southern hemisphere’s clearest
skies and home to the greatest concentration of high-powered telescopes and
observatories in the world. I will check out the Southern Cross, and
observe the constellations turned upside down.
Santiago is Chile’s capital, featuring fine examples
of colonial architecture and a world class Pre-Columbian art museum.
Surrounded by snow-capped peaks and vineyards, Santiago takes the breath away.
Nearby coastal Valparaiso was home to the famed poet Pablo Neruda. This
coastal city is Chile’s main port, and is filled with eccentric and quirky
architecture (think San Francisco), ascensores (elevators) that enable
one to climb the steep hillsides, and a thriving intellectual community.
As I venture further south, I will first visit the Central Coastal region,
where ritzy resorts dot the coast. Only 161 miles from Santiago, beaches
are often deserted. In the Aranucania region, there are forests of ancient
araucaria trees. Spas and rustic pools feature hot springs where weary
hikers can soak their bones.
The Central Andes are adventure travel territory, but people of all
abilities can enjoy. There is trekking in the Andes to see hot springs
and glaciers, whitewater rafting, river kayaking, mountain biking, skiing,
and more. Tranquil towns near Lake Llanquihue are reminiscent
of the Alps, where German settlers influenced architecture and cuisine.
I will also visit the peninsular region of Chiloe Island, where most
people of native descent live in Chile. The region features dozens of
Jesuit churches that date back to the 18th and 19th centuries, colorful houses
built on stilts (palafitos), woolen markets, and a hearty seafood dish called
curanto.
The fjords of Patagonia rival those in Norway, dense forests comprise
one of the world’s most remote and greatest wilderness areas, glaciers feed
iceberg-dotted lakes (including the Iceberg Cemetery at Lake Grey), the famous
Torres del Paine massifs reign supreme, and rheas (an ostrich-like flightless
bird) strut while fly fisherman cast. Off the Tierra del Fuego
coast there are islands that are home to burrowing penguin colonies, whales,
dolphins, and more.
Rapa Nui, also known as Easter Island, is one of the most isolated places
on Earth. Formed by three volcanic eruptions more than three million
years ago, Rapa Nui is 3500 miles from land in any direction, and is home
to a still-thriving Polynesian culture, the infamous moai sculptures (giant
heads), caves, petroglyphs, runic archaeological sites, and the clearest water
for scuba diving on earth.
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